在葡萄酒领域的竞技场上,意大利与法国长期以来一直争夺品质的桂冠,而在价值体系构建和市场推广方面,法国葡萄酒显得更加领先。罗伯特·帕克Robert Parker对于法国葡萄酒评分体系的贡献不可磨灭,他创造的人民币评价系统曾是以波尔多为中心。在他自1978年开始35年的不懈努力中,波尔多地区从30多家知名酒庄增加到了近400家,可以说波尔多乃至法国葡萄酒在全球范围内的成功,不仅离不开罗伯特·帕克对评分体系的推动,而且也体现了其对波尔多地区经济发展所产生的深远影响。
随着罗伯特·帕克Robert Parker对法国著名酒庄销售价格影响力的增大,他越来越难以给这些盛名之外但仍然拥有高分数(即使是90以上)的酒庄打低分,因为这微小差异对于许多商人而言意味着数十万甚至数百万欧元的损失。身处利益漩涡中的帕克终于在2012年将《葡萄酒倡导者The Wine Advocate》杂志转让给新加坡一支评估团队,并于2014年开始放弃亲自打分工作。
从另一个角度看,罗伯特·帕克在为法国葡萄酒站台期间,与其风格和体系差异较大的其他种类和产区,在一定程度上遭受了不公正待遇。而且,这个充满变化与惊喜、丰富品种和产区多样性的意大利,以其独具个性、高品质以及被遗漏于全球普遍认可罗伯特·帕克评分体系之外的地位,它同样是一个重要的大国。
今年,开始回望并反思问题过程中的罗伯特·帕克,或许意识到了自己的某些不足之处。他过去过于专注于法国葡萄酒,现在决定重新探索和发现意大利葡萄 酒 的魅力与价值。
最近,一次特别的情景发生了:Robert Parker 与WineNews记者Monica Larner共同举办了一次“The Wine Advocate”大师班,这是在托斯卡纳(Toscana)进行的一次关于意大利美食与文化交流活动。这场活动旨在深入了解及欣赏意大利各地酿造出的精彩佳釀。1985年的Sassicaia便是Robert Parker极为推荐的一款 意大利红 wine,用他的话来说,“这是我37年职业生涯中最爱的一款”,他认为这是一款将Italy带到世界舞台并达到国际顶尖地位的大师级别佳釀。
“Italy and France are both historical countries in the world of wine,” Robert Parker said, “both countries produce wines that have been and will continue to be benchmarks for the industry, especially for those 'new world' winemakers.”
补充道:“In Europe, Italy is the country with the most native grape varieties. The diversity and complexity of Italian wines are their greatest strengths and charms. This diversity should be respected and protected.” For Park, red wine brings its greatest joy from "diversity". Robert Parker exclaimed: “One of the most beautiful things in my career has been seeing indigenous grape varieties flourishing. Especially in Italy - this land where local grape varieties bloom like flowers.”
Roberto Pak's interest in Italian wines can also be seen as a new beginning away from Bordeaux. Discovering the charm and value of Italian wines may make his later years more focused on discovering Italian wines' charm & value, promoting continuous improvement in Italy's wine quality system.
Finally, it is worth noting that while Robert Parker established his influential "percentage scoring system" which had far-reaching impacts on almost all parts of the global wine industry since 1978 when he founded The Wine Advocate, he never imagined that this system would still exert such profound influence today. As a pioneer who shaped history through his work at The Wine Advocate, we look forward to what further discoveries Roberto Pak will bring forth about Italy's diverse grapes & regions!