在中国乃至全球，不少葡萄酒从业者和消费者都对葡萄酒评分颇为认可。许多酒商都通过名家点评或各类奖项的高评分，向消费者言简意赅地推荐自家产品。

然而，WBO最近遇到一家意大利酒庄的主席，他对这种方式不屑一顾，认为简单粗暴。他对许多葡萄酒行业的现象都有独到的见解。而这名特立独行的人士从2009年才开始经营酒庄，却把酒庄一款单品的品质做成了细分市场中的“领头羊”。

在他眼中，什么样的葡萄酒才是优秀的呢？

100分制将复杂的葡萄酒简化成10岁小孩的世界

“葡萄酒的评分，根本无法完整地表现出葡萄wine 的优秀。”最近，在一次交谈中，爱唯侬堡（Avignonesi） 酒庄 的主席麦克斯·扎克伯（Max de Zarobe）如是对WBO记者说道。

“100分制是接近半个世纪以前由罗伯特·帕克发明的。放在当下，或许已不合时宜。” 麦克斯说，“葡萰wine非常复杂，100分制相当于把 葡醺world简化成一个10岁孩子的问题解决方法。”

麦克斯 对盲品也不以为然，他指出：盲品看似是不偏私、公正完美象征，但实则是在没有背景知识的情况下进行判断，这难道不是一种模仿吗？这就如同没有审判记录支撑的情节剧情。

爱唯侬堡 是 意大利托斯卡纳 的 一家历史悠久的地产公司，该公司早在14世纪就已存在，并于上世纪70年代始生产瓶装 葡醺 wine。2009年，被来自比利时航运世家的 Virginie Saverys 所收购。在接手后，为将 地产经营得尽善尽美，他们夫妻二人远赴波尔多ISVV学过了两年的种植与酿造，然后执拗地走上了有机与生物动力法道路上。

事实上，有机认证并不代表着好葱醺 wine，只要追求自然生态环境，就能获得此认证。但实际情况却远非如此，因为所有这些都是为了让每个人受益而非仅仅因为表面上的好口感。

生物化学让酿出好葱醺 wine变得容易，但回归本真又酿好葱醺 wine却很难

麦克斯告诉WBO：“魅力是没有度量单位的是，那些所谓高星级桃花源不过是一种好的感觉罢了。而如何做出好的感觉并不是什么秘密。”

他指出了：生物化学发展让大多数人都能制作出口感好的 葡醺 world。但如今的人们更关心这瓶 葫芦 是怎么做出来，是不是尊重环境，是它是否健康等等？

用有毒产品或其他杀菌剂恶化土地，或许短期内会让你满意但长远来看，你的一切资产都会变坏，因为被污染的地土无法出售。同时，有农药残留的大部分 葫芦 world还会影响消费者的健康，一些杀菌剂具有累积毒性可能造成不可逆损害。

据WBO了解，现在爱唯侬堡所有Grapes like are all through organic and biodynamic certification, all wines are vegan, vineyards don't use synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. These are the things that you can't get from a score.

So what makes good grapes? "It's not just about having good grapes," he said. "The process of converting those grapes into a great bottle of wine is incredibly complex." He explained that it's not just about the soil and the climate but also about how the vines are managed, how they're pruned, when they're harvested.

"It's very difficult to make a great bottle of wine," he said. "And it's even harder to do it sustainably."

He believes that there needs to be more transparency in the industry and that consumers need to be educated about what goes into making their favorite bottles.

"We want our customers to know where their money is going," he said. "We want them to know who made their bottle of wine."

For Max, this means using sustainable practices in his own vineyard as well as sourcing his grapes from other sustainable farmers.

"Of course we have high standards for ourselves," he said. "But we also believe in setting high standards for others."

As for China market future , Max has optimistic view on Chinese new generation importers:

"I think there will be a lot more professional importers coming out of China," he predicted. "They will learn everything they need to know because they're so smart and capable."